Lens Focus Calibration Card X2 Usage 1. Set up the ruler. Ensure both the camera and ruler are level, exactly perpendicular and at the same height. It is best to mount the camera on a tripod to do this. Set the lens to the widest aperture to obtain the shallowest depth of field. The automatic testing and lens calibration procedure are currently accessible only for digital SLR Canon cameras. For Nikon DSLRs, you will have to use the manual settings change mode (MSC) for now. The software will indicate what to change on the camera, and you will have to type in the values manually.
It is impossible to do without lens calibration when the autofocus on your lenses may not be exactly where you expect, the familiar lens becomes dim and the pictures get blurry.
When you buy a new lens or camera with an increased sensor resolution, you may also find a slight defocus since cameras and interchangeable lenses are often manufactured at different factories.
Therefore, when you combine them, it is better to conduct lens focus calibration for this particular configuration.
What Is Lens Calibration?
Various factors, such as manufacturing defects, insufficient quality testing, or improper transportation and handling can negatively affect the accuracy of autofocus.
Сamera lens calibration involves a sequence of specific camera adjustments that let shooters fine-tune the autofocus of lenses without modifying the lens itself. I wouldn’t suggest physically calibrating the lens yourself. This may affect the warranty and should only be performed by the manufacturers.
The lenses must be disassembled, configured, and reassembled under certain conditions.
3 Ways to Calibrate Lenses
Calibration will help shooters get the most out of their lenses. The majority of them are afraid of the term “calibration”. However, in fact, it is a non-complicated procedure that can be reversed or disabled.
To calibrate a camera lens accurately, a calibrator is required. It can be a ready-made calibration kit, specialized software, or even a ruler made by hand.
Way №1 – DIY Manual Lens Calibration
⊕ Easily read targeting system
⊕ Effortless installation and use
⊕ Precision die-cut for fast assembly
⊖ Sensitive to vibration
⊖ Unpredictable results
⊕ Effortless installation and use
⊕ Precision die-cut for fast assembly
⊖ Sensitive to vibration
⊖ Unpredictable results
This method works using a regular ruler and even a printed sheet with divisions. But with the focus pyramid as a tool proven for years, it is common for fairly accurate and inexpensive manual autofocus calibration.
Dslr Lens Calibration Software Mac Reviews
1. Set up the camera and calibrator.
Installation should be carried out in a space that offers plenty of ambient light. Place the camera on a tripod or a flat, stable surface, such as a table, and put the focus pyramid opposite on a flat surface. The location of the system must be strictly horizontal and stationary, which is the primary condition for successful lens calibration.
The center of the lens outlet and the rectangle-center of the pyramid should be positioned opposite each other at the identical level at a distance of about 6 feet or the suggested focal length of the manufacturer’s specification. You can set everything at the distance from which you usually photograph the most or take advantage of the online hints from the LensAlign distance tool. If the location is correct, the rectangle will resemble a square in the lens.
2. Pre-configure the camera.
Open the lens to the widest possible aperture to achieve the smallest depth of field. This will simplify the process of determining the correct focus of the lens. Set the ISO to the lowest possible value (you only need to set it higher in low light). Then adjust the shutter speed according to other settings to produce an accurate exposure. You require a high shutter speed to take a clear shot.
Ensure that Live View isn’t enabled (if it is present at all). It uses a different autofocus system, and any settings you adjust won’t be visible with the Live View activated. Keep it turned off throughout the process. Adjust the autofocus value on the camera to “0” or simply disable it.
3. Focus and adjust.
Press “Play” and zoom in to see where the focus falls. The numbers above and below the centerline will indicate the areas with the clearest line. When using only the viewfinder, automatically focus on the bold centerline of the focus pyramid, and then take a shot. It is the central focus point.
If the focus is accurate, the centerline marked “0” should be the sharpest one in the shot. In case a line with a number higher than 0 is sharper, the lens performs the function of reverse focusing. In case a line with a number lower than 0 is sharper, it is the front focus.
Once you have determined the type of focus, proceed to the settings of the autofocus micro-adjustment parameters, and make the necessary changes manually. By default, it is zero. Add it starting with a small trial value, for instance, +3. For the reverse focus, you should lower the step.
Way №2 – Test Chart Image Lens Calibration
⊕ AF Fine Tune/AF Micro Adjustment
⊕ Bubble level is featured
⊕ 2-in-1 Gray & Black color balance card
⊕ Made of water-proof material
⊖ Without resolution targets
⊖ The lines’ size could be bigger
⊕ Bubble level is featured
⊕ 2-in-1 Gray & Black color balance card
⊕ Made of water-proof material
⊖ Without resolution targets
⊖ The lines’ size could be bigger
![Lens calibration nikon Lens calibration nikon](/uploads/1/2/6/4/126435801/827735896.jpg)
This method with the use of commercial tool kits requires investing slightly more money. But it is more accurate and suitable for expensive high-resolution cameras. A table printed from the Internet will do.
![Lens Lens](/uploads/1/2/6/4/126435801/590254292.jpg)
However, you can purchase a proven professional kit, like a popular one from JJC. Supposedly, you already own a laptop or PC. The algorithm consists of the same steps as the previous method of how to calibrate a lens, with some additional divergences.
1. Set up the camera and calibrator.
When the installation is complete (see paragraph №1 above), connect the camera to the PC using the supplied USB cable. Work in a proven picture editor, such as Capture One or Lightroom (provided that your camera supports the connecting method). Go to File - > Tethered Capture in Lightroom. In this way, you will display the calibration table on the monitor screen for a better scale and accuracy.
2. Pre-configure the camera.
Ensure that Live View isn’t enabled and focus using only the viewfinder on the crosshair in the center of a large circular target. Take a series of shots, and in between exposures, you should set the focusing ring so that everything appears blurry before the shot.
This way, you force the autofocus system to re-focus each time. As phase-detecting autofocus isn’t always accurate if you rely on a single exposure.
3. Focus and adjust.
If the focus is accurate, the centerline marked “0” on the ruler should be the sharpest in the shot. If not, as soon as you determine the type of focus (see paragraph №3 above), you need to enable fine-tuning of AF/micro-adjustment and set the value to compensate for the focusing problem. Best internet security software for mac 2015.
Best Dslr Lens
Way №3 – Automatic Menu Settings
For modern cameras with integrated AF adjustment
This method to calibrate lens is suitable for owners of modern cameras from famous brands with the condition that the corresponding menu function is available in the settings. Each manufacturer has reserved this function in its own way. It is located in the Functions, Settings, or Setup Menu:
- Olympus – AF Focus Adjust
- Nikon – AF Fine Tune
- Sony – AF Micro Adjustment
- Canon – AF Microadjustment
- Pentax – AF Adjustment
Owners of Nikon camera can take advantage of a quick way to calibrate the lens with automatic focus. It lets the camera read the picture and automatically perform micro-adjustment. The majority of modern cameras now possess this extended function.
1. Set up the camera and calibrator.
Install the equipment according to the recommendations in paragraph №1 above. To simplify the process, you can use any stationary object with high contrast and detail, like a toy or a package with text, so that the camera is able to capture.
2. Pre-configure the camera.
Activate real-time viewing, zoom in completely, use autofocus, and pick the smallest focus you have. You don’t have to take a shot because the camera will do it in the next step. Hold the auto-focus selection button (often located on the auto and manual focus switch) and the video record button for a few seconds.
3. Focus and adjust.
If everything is done correctly (a suitable object, sufficient lighting, system stillness, proper shutter speed), a window will appear asking if you are sure. Check that you have the tripod securely fixed, and press 'Yes' by lightly touching the button or screen (in case you have a Nikon touch screen) to confirm it. As any movement of the camera in the process won’t allow you to continue.
If the camera remains motionless, a screen will appear after a couple of seconds with the message “The new value has been added to the 'AF fine-tune' 'Saved value' list”. Now you can proceed to the exact menu and see what value was assigned to the lens in order to correct it.
I suggest running the automated procedure several times. Because each time you will probably get different values, as this isn’t an exact laboratory procedure. The optimal solution is to take the arithmetic mean of several test shots. For instance, the values -15, -19, and -13 are obtained for 3 shots. Add them up and divide by 3 to get the average rounded value of 16. Then enter this number as the best one.
Way №4 – Automated/Semi-Automated Software
Fast paid process for supported cameras
(4.5/5)
Price: $89.99 one-time fee
Verdict: Currently, Reikan FoCal is a leader in automatic calibration software. It doesn’t only perform automatic/semi-automatic calibration (depending on the supported camera) but also comes with fairly advanced reporting and testing capabilities for each individual focus point. This lens calibration tool will analyze each picture and will specify which autofocus adjustment value works best.
Currently, Reikan FoCal is a leader in automatic calibration software. It doesn’t only perform automatic/semi-automatic calibration (depending on the supported camera) but also comes with fairly advanced reporting and testing capabilities for each individual focus point. This lens calibration tool will analyze each picture and will specify which autofocus adjustment value works best.
- Auto adjustments of camera settings
- Database for comparison of the camera and lens performance
- Target setup utility checks everything before the user starts running tests
- File mode figures out all saved settings
- Camera information tool offers info about one picture
- For some models, the procedure is semi-automatic
- Paid software
The automatic testing and lens calibration procedure are currently accessible only for digital SLR Canon cameras. For Nikon DSLRs, you will have to use the manual settings change mode (MSC) for now. The software will indicate what to change on the camera, and you will have to type in the values manually. Here is the camera lens calibration procedure using the FoCal package:
1. Installation and connection.
A PC or laptop is required for fully automatic calibration. Connect the camera to the computer using the supplied USB cable, turn it on, and install the camera drivers first (if necessary). After installing and configuring the drivers, install FoCal. Once everything is checked, turn off the camera and disconnect the cable upon the end of the installation.
2. Check and prepare the surroundings.
A photographer needs to be in the space with plenty of light in order for autofocus to work correctly. If this isn’t an option, you will have to set up a powerful lighting source to properly set the focus diagram, since one light bulb in the room won’t be enough. Print the test table in PDF format that comes with the FoCal software on plain Letter paper. A qualitative inkjet printer is suggested.
Attach the test table to a flat surface or a straight wall. Locate the camera on a tripod at a particular distance directly from the map, depending on the focal length of the lens. The developer suggests aiming the focal length of the lens at about 25-50 times longer. So, in case you are calibrating a 50mm lens, you should test at a distance of 1.25 to 2.5 m. Ensure that the diagram is parallel to your camera, and that nothing is titled.
3. Initiate the procedure.
Connect the USB cable to the camera and the PC/laptop. Enable the Live View and use the software’s tips on how to move/align the test target. As soon as FoCal shows you a green checkmark, start the automatic or semi-automatic testing procedure. The camera is capable of taking pictures and adjusting the focus. Here is what the procedure looks like:
It’s fairly well known that not all lenses are created equal. Put that in combination with manufacturing variables and lenses don’t always perfectly align with the camera mount. Generally the differences are minor and for the most part negligible, but I buy old Minolta lenses from eBay and I want to get the best bang for buck out of them.
I started making micro adjustments to my lens/camera combinations when I first got Sony’s a77, and have now micro adjusted all my lenses for the a99 and D3. After reading what the Internet had to offer regarding “micro adjustment” or the “fine tune” functions higher level DSLRs offer, I quickly printed off some charts similar to rulers and taped them to my wall to start making adjustments.
I noticed an immediate benefit, especially to my prime lenses. A good majority of my lenses had been back focusing, and strangely the new Sony 16-50mm f/2.8 front focused by quite a bit. I no longer have that lens but it’s known to be a high performing lens, and can I just say how much sharper it got after the micro adjustment? So sharp that if you gave it a glance you might bleed.
I noticed an immediate benefit, especially to my prime lenses. A good majority of my lenses had been back focusing, and strangely the new Sony 16-50mm f/2.8 front focused by quite a bit. I no longer have that lens but it’s known to be a high performing lens, and can I just say how much sharper it got after the micro adjustment? So sharp that if you gave it a glance you might bleed.
Anyway, I recently invested in a new (used) DSLR and a really used lens that I knew needed adjustment. I was getting pretty annoyed with printing sheets off and taping it to my wall, then angling my camera at a 45 degree on a tripod. Yep, I’m THAT lazy.
So I decided to open up Adobe Illustrator and make a nice little reusable tool to get the job done quickly. Simply place it on a flat/level surface with your DSLR on a tripod, focus on the target and take a picture with the lens aperture wide open. Reference the ruler to the right and you should be able to see where the depth of field is, and whether or not your lens/camera combination is preferring to back or front focus. There’s a lot of information on how/what/why people do this so I won’t go into that, this post is about how to make your own “GhettoCAL” target.
Here are the ingredients you’ll need:
- Foam core
- Ruler
- Printer
- X-Acto knife
- Double sided and regular scotch tape
- Cutting board (unless you don’t mind cuts on your desk)
- Paper clip
- ~15-20 minutes (if you’re not jacked up on coffee)
First, print out the PDF template I’ve linked HERE.
Get a piece of foam core and use double sided tape to position and hold the template over the foam core board. Be sure to put the tape under specific components (target, base, ruler etc.)
I designed the template so the edges of the components end at the edge of the paper, so you not only retain a perfectly straight line but you also have one less side to cut (see what I mean about me being lazy? Some call it efficient, I’m more honest.)
You want to cut with 3-4 careful strokes over the same line (trust me, it works out infinitely better this way).
Once you’re done knocking out the pieces, use the scotch tape and tape down the edges of the template to the foam core, you want a clean level surface that won’t catch on something and rip your cool project. I don’t know about you but I only want to do this once.
Match the “Insert” tab with the slot cutout on the base. This is where Illustrator was incredibly useful, I made sure the sizing was right so it wasn’t a loose but solid fit.
You don’t have to do this next step, but I included a piece designed to be back support for the target. I just like the psychological comfort of knowing the structure has more support. If you so choose you can take the piece labeled “Target Back Rest” and tape that to the back of the target. Be careful to put the 90 degree side on the back of the target and the base.
Take the paper clip and insert it into the side of the target indicated “Pin Guide”, now insert the other end into the ruler, being careful to match the lines.
You don’t have to match the lines exactly but if you don’t, you need to make a mental note that “0″ on the ruler will likely not be functional as the center point. You’ll have to figure out depending on what line is “level” with the target, that that line will then become your “correct” focal point matching the plane of the target. (When I look on my target/ruler below from side the “0″ line is on the same plane as the target, that’s how I’ll know focusing on the target will match the “0″ point of the ruler.)
Now put the final pin between the “base” and bottom of the “ruler” where it indicates “Pin Guide”. It’s just to hold the pieces in place and again reinforce the overall structure. It’s not even a good solution, as I ended up adding a bit of tape on the bottom of the base and ruler to hold it in place more.
And there you have it, the GhettoCAL.
Here’s a blown up image of the Nikon D3 and Nikkor 28-105 f/3.5-4.5D combo at 105mm: it looks like the lens front focuses slightly.
Remember, these targets work well with primes and high-end zooms. Lower end zooms with variable apertures and long focal ranges generally will have multiple issues, and calibrating for a front focus at 105mm might cause the lens to back focus at 28mm.
Don’t consider this an end all be all, it’s a guideline to approximate with and compromise to get improved results from otherwise “unknown” combinations.
About the author: David Liang is a photographer who specializes in studio, portrait, and fashion photography. Visit his website here and his blog here. This article was originally published here.
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